The Highlands and Wilderness

What are the highlands?

The highlands are usually defined as the land above about 400–500 metres where there is no permanent settlement. The largest glaciers are here, and many of the largest rivers have their sources in the highlands. For centuries the highland routes were ancient paths between regions, and in folk tales the highlands were the home of outlaws and trolls.

Main destinations

Landmannalaugar and Fjallabak

Landmannalaugar lies in the Fjallabak Nature Reserve and is known for its colourful rhyolite mountains, lava fields and a natural hot pool that is perfect for bathing. Laugahraun, Brennisteinsalda and Bláhnúkur are popular hikes. From Landmannalaugar the Laugavegur trail, about 55 km long, leads south to Þórsmörk and usually takes 3–4 days.

Þórsmörk

Þórsmörk is a lush valley between the Eyjafjallajökull, Mýrdalsjökull and Tindfjallajökull glaciers. The track there crosses unbridged glacial rivers, so it is only accessible in specially equipped vehicles or by bus. From Þórsmörk the Fimmvörðuháls trail leads to Skógar, past the site of the 2010 eruption.

Askja and Herðubreið

Askja is a large caldera in the Dyngjufjöll mountains north of Vatnajökull. After the eruption of 1875, Öskjuvatn, the second-deepest lake in Iceland, formed, together with the Víti crater, where you can bathe in warm, milky-blue water when conditions allow. American astronauts trained in the area for the Moon landings in 1965 and 1967. Nearby is Herðubreið, often called the queen of Icelandic mountains.

Kjölur, Hveravellir and Kerlingarfjöll

The Kjölur road (F35) runs between Langjökull and Hofsjökull and is one of the oldest routes across Iceland. Hveravellir is a beautiful geothermal area on Kjölur, where the outlaws Fjalla-Eyvindur and Halla are said to have lived. Kerlingarfjöll is a colourful mountain range with a powerful high-temperature area, Hveradalir.

Sprengisandur

The Sprengisandur route (F26) runs between Hofsjökull and Vatnajökull and is the longest highland route. The name is thought to refer to riders pushing their horses to the limit to cross the barren sands as quickly as possible. A well-known poem by Grímur Thomsen begins: "Let us ride, ride and drive across the sands."

F-roads and highland driving

F-roads are only passable in four-wheel-drive vehicles and usually open in June or July, depending on snow. Driving them in an ordinary car is not permitted. Rivers can rise quickly on warm days and in rain, and it is often best to cross them early in the morning.

Protecting the highlands

There has been much debate about protecting the central highlands. A large part is already within Vatnajökull National Park and nature reserves, and the idea of a highland national park covering the whole interior has been discussed in the Althing. Visitors are encouraged to stay in the huts of the Icelandic Touring Association and other clubs and to treat the fragile nature with care.